Spend some time in Marin County, at the “other” end of the Golden Gate Bridge, and it doesn’t take long to figure out that the redwood-shaded, coastal hill country north of San Francisco has a ridiculous number of things to do. Miles of coastal wilderness and redwood forests to explore by foot or by bike, farm-to-table restaurants and artisan food-makers, charming towns, theaters and clubs where locals like Robin Williams, Carlos Santana, and George Lucas might be on stage or in the crowd—what’s not to love about Marin?
Yet somehow this diminutive county (barely 500 square miles) remains under the radar—a secret, perfect hideaway. Even better, it’s straddled by two of Northern California’s top destinations—San Francisco to the south and the Napa/Sonoma Wine Country to the northeast—yet it doesn’t have the hassle or crush of those vacation hotspots. Sure, you can visit them, but then get out of craziness (and the inflated price tags) and retreat to comfortable lodgings dotting Marin, such as the Larkspur Hotel Mill Valley. Situated on the edge of a bird sanctuary overlooking Richardson Bay, the hotel epitomizes the kind of ultimate base camp that a Marin County lodging can provide: easy access to San Francisco and beyond, but incredible beauty and plenty to do if you don’t want to stray too far.
Need more coaxing? Here are my top five secret itineraries for memorable adventures in Marin.
SECRET MUIR WOODS
A visit to this 75,398-acre grove of towering coast redwood trees is on every “must see” list. That said, the tangle of cars and crowds at Muir Woods’ main entrance (on the woods’ south side) can be an unfortunate result, especially in summer. But if you’re the hiking sort, here’s a novel—and surprisingly secret—way to visit. From Mill Valley, drive up Marin’s signature peak, 2,571-ft. Mt. Tamalpais via Panoramic Highway and park at the Pantoll area (day-use parking fee). Then cross the highway to walk down the Bootjack Trail, through redwoods and along creeks, to access Muir Woods from its peaceful north end. You have to hike back up to your car (about 4 miles round trip), but it’s worth it.
LOCAVORE DAY TRIP
If you’re a locavore—or just like amazingly fresh food—you’ll flip over Marin’s farmers’ markets, organic and sustainable farms, farm-to-table restaurants, and artisan food-makers. One of the best places to tap into the locavore scene is charming Pt. Reyes Station, an alt-lifestyle hamlet about 30 miles north of Mill Valley on Highway 1. It’s a gorgeous drive through pastoral countryside—a popular cycling route for Marin’s über-healthy locals.
Tap into the local harvest at Cowgirl Creamery, producers of award-winning farmstead cheeses. (The triple-cream Red Hawk on a hunk of fresh bread from Bovine Bakery around the corner is pretty close to perfection.) Also worth a visit: Toby’s Feedbarn—part farmers’ market, part gallery, part yoga studio and theater space. Just down the road, stop in at Marin Sun Farms Butcher Shop and order a grass-fed burger topped with local cheddar. Work it all off with a hike at Pt. Reyes National Seashore.
MARIN HEADLANDS ADVENTURE
Pack a picnic into your fanny pack (which they provide on loan for free to guests at Larkspur Hotel Mill Valley) and explore the latticework of trails lacing the nearby Marin Headlands, part of the protected Golden Gate National Recreation Area. One easy access point from Mill Valley is Tennessee Valley Road, which leads to a network of well-marked trails. Try the 3½-mile round-trip Tennessee Valley Trail, an easy, mostly flat amble that heads west through a gentle valley to a wild stretch of coastal beach. Or, from U.S. 101 near Sausalito, follow Bunker Rd. through a spooky tunnel to Fort Cronkhite, a former military base, and Rodeo Beach. Stop in at the Marine Mammal Center in its glistening hillside facility, where specialists treat sick or injured seals, sea lions, and other wild marine mammals.
GOLDEN GATE BIKE CRUISE
Rent a bike from local outlets (try Mike’s Bikes in Sausalito), or, if you’re staying at the Larkspur Hotel Mill Valley, borrow one of their free bikes available for guests and take a spin across the Golden Gate Bridge. It’s a spectacular, 10½-mile ride from Mill Valley to north end of the iconic span—moderately
challenging in stretches but unforgettably beautiful. Once you cross the span, explore the sprawling Presidio, a former military base that’s now protected parkland. Highlights include the new Disney Family Museum, Crissy Field’s restored wetlands and bay-front walk, and a chance to peek at the Letterman Digital Arts Center, part of George Lucas’s filmmaking empire. Grab a bite is the Warming Hut, a cozy eatery on the way to fascinating Fort Point, a Civil War-era brick fortress at the mouth of San Francisco Bay.
BEACH TOWN FUN
Catch the relaxed vibe of Marin County with a visit to its rag-tag necklace of beach towns sprinkled along the edge of the Pacific. Marin may be one of California’s most affluent counties, but you won’t know it in these decidedly kick-back, unpretentious enclaves, all accessed by Highway One. First is Muir Beach, really not a town but a collection of homes—some funky, some breathtaking—seemingly pasted onto coastal bluffs at the southern end of Marin. Continue north to Stinson Beach, where scruffy-fun surf shops and relaxed outdoor cafes line the route. The star here is the beach, a wide sandy crescent that’s a favorite local hangout, even when it’s foggy (especially in summer). FYI, Stinson’s north end is dog-friendly. Finally, continue north to tiny Marshall, where chef Pat Kuleto has created an almost perfect place to watch the sunset at Nick’s Cove. Order a platter of fresh oysters harvested from the adjacent Tomales Bay Oyster Company, add a glass of crisp chardonnay, and toast your slice of Marin heaven.
To discover more of Harriot’s secret adventures in Marin County, log onto her blog at http://secretmarin.blogspot.com. And if you have your own tips and recommendations on great outdoor getaways throughout Northern California that you’d like to share, feel free to add your own comments to our blog below. We’d love to hear from you.
Romantic Getaway: A romantic 2-night Santa Cruz getaway package to 

I want to do it all TODAY. Can you write a note to my boss?
Carin: I hereby tell your boss to give you the day off. This is two-for-one in sending it to you, right boss-lady?
Nice job Harriot! Next time we’re in the area you’ll have to show us all the secret spots, it’s so beautiful there! Hope you’re doing well!
MARCH
The Rogue Performance Festival, Fresno. MARCH (call for dates). Celebrate creativity’s cutting edge at this annual festival showcasing independent theatre, music, dance, film, poetry, storytelling and even puppetry. INFO 559/445-8300
That is bizarre, I have no idea how that Rogue bit got in there. Oh well, it’s fun! Anyway, nice to hear from you Britt–come down and enjoy the place any ole time! You’re always welcome–hope you’re doing well too!
This is some of your finest writing. I have enjoyed many of the spots you talk about, some more than once or twice, yet I positively drooled reading your descriptions. Remember our Headlands picnics when you were small? Unforgettable!
Gee, thanks. Yeah, and I remember the time Fred tipped over in the folding beach chair…into the poison oak. I believe I caught it on film…
I have been here many times and it is such a great getaway secret. Forget the hustle and bustle of the city. This is where it is at!
And I have had the pleasure of visiting your beautiful “Riviera”–hope to be down again soon. We should have a glass of local Pinot!
Hey Britt–thanks for the comment! Come on down and enjoy the beauty and the cool fog–you’re welcome any time~got plenty of other secret corners.
We have relatives in Marin and have to go over there often. It’s always a fun trip rain or shine, can’t beat
Molly Stones for a quick stop for some food. Once there, your activities, whether golf, painting, hiking, etc
are limited only by your time. I am not drawn to Marin as a place to live, too many yuppies for my taste,
but the physical beauty is so refreshing when you live in the Valley as we do. I enjoy landscaping, and there
are great nurseries over there, and check out the variety of trees and shrubs (Marin Botanical Gardens) that
flourish in that climate.